Whatever you call it, you can’t live without it … and we just got a new one. But, I had no idea it was going to be such a challenging purchase. Assuming you have a specific size and know you need it to be fueled by gas or electricity (or do you want duel-fuel), you then have to decide between a cooktop, built-in, free-standing, drop-in or slide-in range. Now, if you want an electric stove, do you want coil or induction? If its gas, how many btu’s do you need? How many burners? A standard 4 or maybe 6? Or how about a built-in griddle that doubles as two burners?
Then, of course, comes the design … do you want the controls in the front or the back? Or would you prefer a touch screen? What about baking … conventional or convection? How many oven compartments do you want? Do you want them to cook at the same or different temperatures? Do you want a broiler drawer, warming drawer or storage drawer? What about a temperature probe? And we haven’t even started to talk about finishes …
It was so confusing … but what I really wanted was a classic, cast-iron English AGA cooker. I’d be surprised if you’re not familiar with this icon of a cooker. For over 100 years, the AGA has commanded attention in most English kitchens, from the largest manor houses to the more modest cottages. Chefs including Marco Pierre White, Paul Hollywood and Mary Berry wouldn’t think of cooking on anything else. Jamie Oliver said AGAs “make people better cooks”. Food writer, William Sitwell, said using one was a “much more natural way of cooking”, and actor Gerard Depardieu describes his AGA simply as “fabulous”.
Although the AGA has been a British icon for decades, it was invented and originally manufactured in Sweden. Its inventor was a Swedish physicist, Dr. Gustaf Dalén. Dalén was a brilliant, self-taught inventor who began his impressive career managing the family farm. His first invention was a machine to test the quality of milk. That invention alone caught the eye of others who encouraged him to get a formal education. Gustaf went on to earn a Masters and subsequently a Doctorate degree, earning a Nobel Prize in Physics in 1912.
Gustaf Dalen, Managing Director of AGA – 1926
Gustaf became employed by the Svenska Aktiebolaget Gas Accumulator company in 1906 and within three years became Managing Director. Dalén worked exclusively with a highly flammable and sometimes explosive hydrocarbon gas. This hydrocarbon gas produced a bright white light perfect for illuminating lighthouses. This important safety device for the fishing and shipping industries led the way for similar products for lighthouses . . . the Dalén Light, the Sun Valve and then the Dalén Flasher, a device which created a small pilot light, reducing gas consumption by 90%. These inventions were a huge success and AGA lighthouses were mass- produced and sold all over the world.
Unfortunately, in 1912 during a test for one of these highly-flammable devices, an explosion occurred which caused Gustaf to lose his sight. This physical setback did not deter him, however. Over the course of his lifetime he had over 100 successful patented inventions . . . his most memorable was the AGA cooker.
Although there were many styles of British ranges being used, from wood to coal fired, they tended to be dirty, time consuming and, occasionally, dangerous. They had ovens to bake in and hot plates to simmer things on and they kept the kitchen toasty warm. For proper venting, the ranges needed to be installed into a fireplace opening. The biggest disadvantage was soot falling down the chimney into the food, and the amount of work it took to clean them. The range had to be cleaned every day, carefully removing the ashes and cinders, which were still combustible. The oven had to be swept out, and any grease which splattered needed to be scraped off. The flue needed to be cleaned constantly.
Gustaf’s wife, Elma, was in the kitchen cooking on a typical soot-producing, dirty and sometimes very dangerous coal-fired range. Realizing that this was not only dirty, dangerous and incredibly time consuming to use, Gustaf began conceiving a new style of cooker. He wanted one that was clean, easy-to-use, economical and not at all dangerous. Using the principle of heat storage, Dalén combined a heat source, two large hotplates and two ovens in one cast-iron cooker. In doing so, he invented a range that changed the lives of cooks not only in Great Britain but all over the world.
AGA cooker. Circa 1939
Originally manufactured in Sweden, the AGA cooker wasn’t introduced to England until 1929, but it didn’t reach its height of popularity until after World War II. During the war years, the British government used AGA cookers in feeding centers, hospitals and munitions factories, and the public fell in love with them. After that, the demand for these cookers skyrocketed and manufacturing moved from Sweden to England . . . where they are still made today.
Over the years, as with other ranges, much has changed. Today, depending upon the model, this massive beast of a cooker can have from two to six oven compartments, and from one to two hot plates on top (or the hob). It is available as gas-fueled or by electricity. You also have as many decisions to make as I’ve had to make in purchasing my new not-AGA range. But, whichever size, model, color, options, etc. you choose, you can be sure you’ve made a lifetime purchase.
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References: Wikipedia, Cosi, House Logic, Victorian Decorating, 1900s, AGAliving,
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Make the filling first by dissolving a packet of orange-flavored gelatin into 1/3 cup of boiling water. Spray or grease a 12 count muffin tin. Into the bottom of each cup put a tablespoon of the gelatin. Put the tin into the refrigerator for the gelatin to set. When the gelatin has set completely, remove each disc from the muffin tin and place on a dish. Place the dish back into the refrigerator until its time to assemble.
Using a stand mixer or hand mixer, beat the eggs and sugar together for at least 5 minutes until delicate, pale and frothy. Sift together the flour, baking soda and salt. Carefully fold the dry ingredients into the egg mixture. Be careful not to deflate the eggs. Put 2 tablespoons of batter into the bottom of each of the greased muffin cups and bake at 350° for 7 to 8 minutes or until pale but baked through.
Remove the muffin pan from the oven and let cool for a few minutes. Then remove each cake/cookie and let them cool completely on a wire rack. Meanwhile, over a bowl of very hot water, melt the chocolate chips, stirring as necessary until smooth and shiny. Let cool a bit.
To assemble: take a cake/cookie and place an orange disc on top and quickly place a spoonful of the chocolate on top of the disc. Using the back of a spoon, spread the chocolate, sealing in the orange wafer. Place the cookie back onto the rack. When they are all assembled, using the tines of a fork, gently make a criss-cross pattern on each of them*.
They may not be as pretty as Mary Berry’s Jaffa Cakes, but they taste pretty darn good. Tasty little cakes with an orange filling and chocolate frosting. If you wanted to make these ahead, I’m sure they’d probably last a few days, but definitely not in our house!
First, warm the milk in the microwave (not too hot) and stir in the yeast and the sugar. Let it rest for 10 minutes until its frothy.
In a large bowl, stir together the flours and the salt. Add the warm milk mixture and stir together until a thick dough forms. If using a stand mixer, use the paddle attachment. Let it mix for about 3 or 4 minutes.
No need to take it out, knead it and grease the bowl. Just cover the bowl with a towel and put it aside to rise for about an hour, or until the dough has doubled in size.
When it has doubled and will hold an indentation from your finger, it’s ready. Mix together the cup of water with the baking soda. Now comes the tricky part, mix this liquid into the dough. It’ll be difficult at first. I used a fork to break the dough up, and then beat the mixture with a wooden spoon until it was somewhat smooth (but not perfect … still a bit lumpy).
Using a ladle or tablespoon, spoon equal portions of the batter into the molds. The batter will be sticky and gloppy. Don’t be concerned. That’s how it’s suppose to be. Keep an eye on the heat to be sure they don’t burn on the bottom, turning it down as necessary. They will rise and as with pancakes, they will be almost fully cooked before they need to be flipped over (about 6 minutes on the first side). When the top has lost its gloss and the sides look firm, remove the rings. The rings will be hot, so use tongs. With a spatula, flip the crumpets over and let them cook on the other side for just another minute.
Add the cubed fish and fold in gently. You don’t want to break the fish up. If you have leftover boiled potatoes, add them now … or any leftover veggies you may have. Turn off the heat and dump everything into a large casserole or pie plate.
Take the pastry out of the frig and, on a lightly floured board, roll it out to fit the casserole or pie plate. Be sure to cut an air hole in the center of the pastry for the steam to escape.
Be sure to put the casserole onto a baking tray to catch any spillage … and there will be spillage. Bake at 425º for 40 to 45 minutes until golden brown and bubbly.
Has anyone else noticed that the bakers are younger, more stylish, and dare I say, more attractive? In past seasons, there was a wide range of ages. But not so much any more. Where’s the Val, Diana, Brendan, Norman and Nancy today? Is this home baker now too old for the commercial Channel 4 audience? Also, these much younger contestants, with their perfect teeth, coifed hair and slim bodies appear to be in ‘character’ now … much like MasterChef.
The judges, Mary Berry and Paul Hollywood, somehow work beautifully together … a bit like Julia Child and Jacques Pepin. Paul, with his piercing blue eyes, would intimidate even the most seasoned baker. It just takes one look for you to know you’re doomed, but Mary (30 years Paul’s senior) finds some good in every bake, regardless of how awful it may look or taste. Both Paul and Mary are hugely successful professional bakers, cookbook authors, and television personalities, each with their own cooking shows; but there are no signs of egos here. Each week they bring interesting and quite difficult challenges to the contestants, after which they focus on the ‘bake’, nothing more. How refreshing!
The baking “challenges” are divided into three categories. First , there is the Signature Bake, to test the contestants’ creativity and baking ability. Next is the Technical Bake, where the bakers receive a recipe from Mary or Paul with minimal instruction. Finally, it’s the Showstopper Bake, which is designed to display the bakers’ skill and talent. Many of these “challenges” are classic British baked items, some are from French patisseries … most of which I have never ever heard of (actually some of the contestants have never heard of them either). Yes, the contestants are given recipes in the Technical Bake, and, yes, they have advance knowledge of what the next challenge is going to be so that they can practice at home. What they don’t have to do is try to utilize canned chicken, root beer, squash blossoms and dill pickles to make a frozen dessert. This is a true baking show, remember. Gimmick free!