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SACHER TORTE

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On our recent trip to Vienna, a slice of authentic SACHER TORTE was on the “must eat” list (along with schnitzel, sauerbraten, sausage, spaetzle, and pretzels) … at one of Vienna’s famous coffee houses, of course.  Do I have your attention yet?

Vienna is world famous for its desserts, all of which are named after emperors, princes, princesses, operas, politicians, chefs, countries.  Keeping these traditional names alive is a reminder of  Austria’s tumultuous past.  From 1273 with the selection of Rudolph as king, the Hapsburgs ruled over this entire Eastern European area, maintaining control for 640 years.  After years of wars and takeovers, and the fall of Napoleon in 1815, the middle class of Vienna exploded.  People emigrated to Austria from all the surrounding countries and  Vienna became a bulging metropolis.

Cooks and bakers were now sought after, not only for the upper-class households, but the middle class as well.  Prices for the transportation of coffee, sugar, flour, as well as their improved quality, made fine desserts available to everyone.  Preferring to spend their money on culture, ‘the art of the baker’ became a cultural phenomenon.  Now with so many people in the city, coffee houses started springing up everywhere, providing people with a place to get away from the crowds, sit down and relax.

As gathering places for poets, academics and well-read citizens, who found their imaginations stimulated by the lively conversation, as well as, perhaps, by the caffeine, coffee houses were popular around Europe since the 16th century.  In Vienna, however, coffee didn’t actually appear until the 17th century when Turkish coffee brewers introduced coffee to Vienna.  By offering free ‘tastings’, the coffee merchants opened up a whole new world to the Viennese.  Although Turkish coffee was rather bitter and unsweetened, the coffee house proprietors soon learned to serve the brewed coffee with hot milk or cream, and honey.  This is how Viennese prefer their coffee to this day.  Can you say “cafe latte”?

I will say, as a ‘tea drinker’, I was a bit skeptical about getting a good cuppa in a Viennese coffee house, but, I was not disappointed in the least!  Served on a silver tray, in a proper teapot, with a lemon wedge and milk on the side, I couldn’t have been happier.

Coffee, as well, is always served on a tray, with a glass of water on the side, and in finer cafes, a spoon balanced on the rim.  The water is a holdover from the Turkish custom to show the customer that they could stay as long as they wanted.  I think it may be because Turkish coffee can be a bit strong.  But, needless to say, the Viennese coffee house experience is one to treasure.

I’m getting a little off track, this is a post about the world-famous Sacher Torte, after all.  “Torte” or “torten” began as a cake made from ground nuts.  Nuts were less expensive than flour made from wheat.  Cane sugar was extremely expensive, and, until the technique of extracting sugar from beets was perfected, most tortes were made with honey.  As a result, they were quite dense.

So, what is the story behind the world famous “Torte”?   It begins in 1832 when Prince von Metternich wanted to throw a spectacular party, and asked his chef to create a new dessert.  The Prince wanted something unique, ‘masculine’, not light and fluffy.  The palace’s chef fell ill and wasn’t able to come up with anything.  Now what was the Prince to do!  A 16-year old second apprentice in the kitchen, Franz Sacher, stepped up.  Deciding that ‘chocolate’ was one of the most ‘masculine’ flavors, he combined that with apricot preserves, and a glossy chocolate glaze.

The dessert was a sensation.  As a result, Franz’s career as a pastry chef catapulted.  He was in demand everywhere and ended up in Demel, the royal bakery to the emperor.  From there, this torte was offered to the masses.  Franz became very successful, saved his money, and eventually opened his own bakery (taking his recipe with him).  Franz’s son, Eduard, followed his father in the food business and in 1876 opened a cafe/hotel.  Eduard decided that his father’s dessert should be the trademark for his hotel.  Demel disagreed and continued to offer the cake at their bakery, along with all the copycat tortes being made elsewhere.

After two wars, Viennese businesses had a very difficult time fighting back into the economy.  Whatever business owners could do to boost brand identification of a product was welcome.  The Sacher Torte was being made everywhere, but the Sacher family wanted control and decided to sue Demel over the right to use their name.  The fight ended up in court for seven long years. The court eventually concluded that Franz Sacher’s original recipe was unique and the Sacher family was awarded exclusive rights to the name, “The Original Sacher Torte”, which allowed the family to place an official chocolate seal on each cake.

Yes, you can purchase ‘Sacher-like’ tortes all over Austria, Germany and Budapest, but is it “The Original Sacher Torte”?  The 14 bakers at the Hotel Sacher bake approximately 800 of these cakes a day.  And, if you’d like to enjoy a slice at the Hotel, be prepared to stand in line for quite a while.  For two days, we attempted it, but gave up and went across the street to a warm, cozy cafe.  The “Original” is not only sold at the Sacher Hotel and Cafe, but at gift shops as well as the airport.  Look for the ‘seal’ if you want the original.

Surprisingly, this chocolate confection is not the moist, gooey chocolate cake that you may have become accustomed to.  It is quite dense, with a combination of chocolate flavors, and a thin spread of apricot preserves between the two layers … and is always served with a dollop of whipped cream.  The original recipe remains a secret, of course, locked away somewhere safe, but you can enjoy many imitations throughout Europe.  And, maybe you’ll be more patient than we were and stand outside in line (for hours) just to enjoy a slice.  I hope you get the opportunity!

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APPLE STRUDEL or “Apfelstrudel”

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I love to bake.  And anyone who knows me, pretty much knows that when I’m baking, I’m in my ‘happy place’.  Cakes, cookies, pastries … it doesn’t matter.  And, it really doesn’t matter if the bake comes out tasty or not (well, maybe a bit).  Each and every one is fun to make as well as a learning experience, and I get to express my creativity.  The real disasters, of course, end up in the trash.  Most get handed out to family members.  And some we eat, whether they’re successful or not.

This past Christmas hubby and i decided to escape the hectic pace of the holidays with all its expectations and we ran away.  To Germany and Austria.  For two weeks.  To explore the traditional European Christmas Markets, which date back to the 13th century. (Yes, the trip was close to being perfect.)  And while we were in Austria, I came across the opportunity to take a class in ‘apple strudel’ making.  This was a tourist activity, without a doubt, but led by a professional pastry chef who saw the opportunity to take this classic Viennese pastry and create a cottage business around it.  (If only I could come up with an idea like that.)

I wasted no time in signing us up for the class.  We arrived at the designated time.  Were greeted warmly.  Put on our aprons and washed up.  Located just off the main square in a dark, windowless cave, the ‘school’ itself couldn’t have been more picturesque.

Edelweiss Cooking School, Salzburg, Austria

As most people, I thought this iconic dessert, served in every restaurant and cafe throughout Austria, was of German or Austrian origin.  But, as we learned, strudel actually originated in Turkey around the 14th century.  When the Ottoman’s ruled most of Eastern Europe, this phyllo dough pastry based on Middle Eastern baklava, was introduced to the Habsburgs’ and the aristocracy loved it.  It didn’t take long before pastry chefs began changing things up a bit; adding apples, raisins, replacing walnuts, etc. but soon it became in demand by everyone.  The first handwritten recipe for strudel was actually discovered in Vienna in the Town Hall Library, dated 1696.

Introductions were made and we learned about the strudel’s origins, popularity and techniques to make one.  Feeling a bit intimidated by this flaky, fruity, not overly-sweet, with a touch of cinnamon dessert, it was now time to try our hand at making one.  Yikes!!

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APPLE STRUDEL (from the Edelweiss Cooking School)
Tools needed:  Rolling pin, parchment paper, tablecloth or large tea towel, shallow baking pan, pastry brush.  Bake at 375° 35 to 40 minutes.  Serves 6 to 8 generously.

The Dough:
210 grams (1-1/4 cups) bread flour
125 grams (1/2 cup) water
pinch salt
1 tablespoon vegetable oil

Thoroughly mix all the ingredients together in a bowl.  Turn the dough out and knead for about five minutes until the dough is silky smooth.  (Or, if you prefer a stand mixer, use the bread hook and let it run for about five minutes.)  Place the dough in a lightly oiled bowl, cover tightly and let the dough rest for at least two hours.  You can refrigerate the dough at this point overnight, or freeze it to make another day.

The Filling:
5 or 6 firm cooking apples (such as Granny Smiths) peeled and sliced
100 grams (1/2 cup) sugar
50 grams (1/2 cup) buttered, toasted bread crumbs
1 tablespoon cinnamon
1/2 stick butter, melted (might need a bit more)
1/2 cup raisins (optional) soaked overnight
Flour for dusting

First, melt some butter in a shallow pan and add the bread crumbs, coating well and toast til rich brown.  Let cool.

Peel and slice the apples. Nice, but not necessary is to put the apples in a bowl and toss them with a bit of orange juice or lemon juice to keep from browning.  Sprinkle the apples with sugar and cinnamon.

Dust a large tea towel, or tablecloth lightly with flour.  Gently place the dough on the cloth and sprinkle with flour.  Using a rolling pin, roll the dough out until its about the size of a pizza.  If it is difficult to roll, cover the dough and wait 20 minutes til the gluten relaxes a bit.

Here comes the tricky part.  Flour your hands and pick up the dough, using the backs of your hands (flip your rings around or take them off).  Reach under the dough and gently stretch it, allowing the weight of the dough to fall.  Go around and around and around, slowly stretching and allowing the dough to become as thin as possible.  Yes, you should be able to read a newspaper through it.

When the dough is at least four or five times its original size, gently lay it onto the floured cloth.  Trim the dough to a rectangle and use the trimmings to fill in any holes which may have occurred.

Now brush the dough with half of the melted butter, then sprinkle the buttered bread crumbs over the dough, leaving a 2″ border around it..

Now it’s time to place the apples (and raisins, if you are using).  The apples should be heaped at the top of the dough – leaving an inch or two at the top and on either side.  Then take one side of the dough and fold it over the apples.  Do the same on the other side.  Now take the top and fold it down over the apples.  You have now begun to create a little package encasing the apple filling and ready for rolling.

Now lift the top of the cloth and allow the weight of the apples to fall forward.  It will roll up into a log all by itself.  Using your hands, press it together to seal.

Brush the bottom seam with a little more butter and pinch the seam closed.  Roll the log back onto the pastry cloth and use the cloth to slide the strudel onto a buttered baking tray, seam side down.  Brush the strudel completely with the remaining melted butter.  Bake in a preheated 375° oven for 30 to 40 minutes until golden brown and flaky on top.

When fully baked, remove the pan from the oven and let cool 10 to 15 minutes.  Place the strudel on a serving platter, and generously sprinkle with confectioner’s sugar.  Don’t waste any time … serve warm with whipped cream or ice cream.

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Have I made this traditional strudel since we’ve been home.  Absolutely!  But, trying to photograph each step was tricky.  So, I’m attaching a clip from (who else) Paul Hollywood, which, hopefully, will make it a lot easier to understand.  Don’t be intimidated.  Just do it!  And, if you find yourself in Salzburg, Austria, sign up for this fun, delicious class!!

It’s a fun video to watch.  Hopefully, you’ll enjoy it.
Paul Hollywood Learns How to Make an Apple Strudel.

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References:  Edelweiss Cooking School, Medievalists. Gambero Rosso, Lilvienna, Culturetrip,

Milk in Tea …

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How do you take your tea?  With milk … or without?  This isn’t the debate about whether milk goes in first or last.  That is a topic for a different day.  This discussion is about why are we adding milk to tea at all!  Many people would never think of having a cuppa tea without adding milk. For me, it can vary.  If its a cold, rainy day and I need a hearty Assam, then, definitely ‘yes’.  Otherwise, I’ll take my tea — green, black, or white — as is.  Steeped perfectly with no milk or sweetener.  There are many theories as to the origin of adding milk to tea, but would you like to know the REAL story?

Let’s start at the beginning …. as we all know, tea originated in China about 5,000 years ago.  And contrary to many beliefs, adding milk to tea actually began in China.  Over the centuries, tea evolved in its processing and in its enjoyment.  Although written documents do not go back quite that far, we do know that in the beginning tea leaves were pulverized into a paste and used primarily for medicinal purposes.  By the 8th century, however, tea became much more ceremonial and reserved only for nobility.  The Imperial Court started enjoying its tea pulverized and prepared by boiling in hot water.

By the 12th century, the preparation had changed again as tea continued to be pounded into a powder, but now it was frothed up in hot water before serving.  A method that found its way to Japan and is still practiced today.  As Japan was embracing this style of tea preparation and enjoyment, the Chinese Imperial Court once again changed the way they prepared tea.  Now preparation was to infuse the whole tea leaves in water, just as we make tea today.  The pressed powder tea vanished entirely from Chinese tea culture (not from Japan).  But when did milk come into play?

Across northern China, along the Mongolian and Siberian borders, lie the Wuyi Mountains, where it is said some of the best teas originated.  The tradition of adding dairy to tea was actually invented by people who live in this stark, frigid landscape.

During ancient times, as a means of preservation, tea was compressed into blocks or bricks.  The leaves, either whole or pulverized, would have been pressed into molds to shape them, and then left to dry until all the moisture was evaporated.  The bricks themselves were very primitive and could take on many different sizes and shapes … over the years some of the molds became quite decorative and elaborate.  These tea bricks were also traded as a form of currency (but we’ll leave that discussion for another day).


The Mongols from the north had no use for the Chinese and from the days of Genghis Khan in the 13th century, began conquering this vast region.  As the Vikings did when conquering Great Britain, the Mongols traveled with their nomadic families, subsisting entirely on the meat and the milk from their herds.  These new rulers of the land drank this coarse dark brew made from the tea bricks.  They enriched the brew by adding the fermented milk from their mares and yaks.

Enjoying yak milk tea and tea balls in a yurt in Mongolia.

To prepare the tea, pieces of the bricks were broken off, boiled with water or milk, and then mixed with butter and a little salt, making it a healthful, filling beverage.  This style of tea preparation with its high fat content, was needed for people who faced the brutal climate of this region.  Many times the cooked tea leaves would then be formed into balls and eaten as food.  Both of these styles of preparation continue today.

By the 17th century when the Manchu tribesmen began moving down from the north to retake their country, tea growers were already selling teas … to the Dutch.  Once again, contrary to popular beliefs, it was the Dutch who began buying tea and introduced it to Europe … not the English.  Although Portuguese, Italian and Spanish explorers tasted tea and wrote about it, it was the Dutch who began the tea trade.  The Dutch East India Company was formed in 1605 and began trading with China, bringing the tea leaves to Amsterdam.  In 1655, when the Dutch ambassador travelled with the Company to the port city of Canton, he documented that milk was “given with his tea”.  This is the first evidence of Europeans adding milk to tea.

Tea was known in France by 1636, but didn’t enjoy a big following.  In Russia, tea was given as a gift to Czar Michael in 1618, but he rejected it.  Tea also appeared in Germany around this time, but also wasn’t widely accepted.  But, when tea first appeared in England thanks to Portuguese Princess Catherine de Braganza, aristocrats took to it immediately.   It was through coffeehouses in England in the 1650s where tea first appeared publicly.  From there it was introduced to the British colonies in America.
When tea was introduced to Britain in the middle of the 17th century, it was green tea from China … gunpowder green, served without milk.  But, by the 1720s, although very expensive, black teas from China had taken over in popularity and were outselling green teas.   And it was not the best quality, so adding milk to the cup just made sense.  And that’s when British tea drinkers began adding milk and sugar for enjoyment.

As Sam Twinings, director of R. Twinings and Company, says:  “There is no doubt tea is, on the whole, improved by milk.  It smooths the taste, and is often referred to as ‘creaming’, giving a more pleasant, gentler, softer result.  Teas like Gunpowder, Green and Jasmine, however, are not good with milk.  Assam type teas cannot be drunk without it.”  I couldn’t agree more!

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References:  Siam Teas, Teapedia, Wikipedia, Harvard Business School, That’s Mandarin, Atlas Obscura, Teasenz
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Cowboys and Englishmen?

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We just returned from a wonderful, much-needed vacation … two weeks in Texas.  We flew into San Antonio and did the Alamo experience, one which I heartily recommend.  But the height of our vacation was the week we spent at a guest ranch in the ‘cowboy capital of the country’.  Of course, before arriving, we weren’t aware that there was a ‘cowboy capital of the country’, but there is … and it is Bandera, Texas.  This tiny, one square mile town, nestled in the Texas Hill Country, proudly boasts a population of 957.  There were a few shops and restaurants, and considering the population, quite a few pubs.  Many of the local watering holes had motorcycles parked out front, but a few hitching posts were still around, where you knew horses once waited patiently for their owners to return.

But we were not staying in town.  Five miles outside of town, we found our way onto what was to become our ‘home away from home’ … a small, out-of-the-way, family-run guest ranch.  As we tentatively drove through the gates and up the long, dusty driveway, we were warmly greeted by a lumbering golden retriever and his much more energetic porch mate, a yellow lab.  At that moment, we knew this was our kind’a place.  We entered the rustic main ranch house, approached the desk and before checking in, were immediately asked if we were interested in going out for a ride.  What?  Really?  Now?  Our answer … YES!  Did I say this was ‘our kind’a place’?

Since the 1930s, five generations have been welcoming guests to this 725 acre ranch, giving them a glimpse into the cowboy way of life.  Guests can stay for as few or as many days as they’d like … and quite a few came and went while we were there.  But as we all got to know each other, at the dinner table, during rides, around the campfire at night, we discovered most of the families were from ENGLAND.  What?  More guests were from England, and other European countries, than from the U.S.!!

But why?  What was the fascination with this Western cowboy culture?  (Probably the same reason I find European culture, history and traditions so fascinating.)  I think it might go back to Western films and tv programs.  If you’ve seen the movie Belfast, set in the 60s, your heart will melt at the scenes where Buddy is mesmerized whenever a Western TV program is on the telly.  And to escape from the oppression the family was living through, they went to the cinema to see Gary Cooper starring in the classic High Noon.

GUNSMOKE starring James Arness.

Who remembers Gunsmoke?  Rawhide?  The Lone Ranger?  These programs, and many, many more were just as popular in the U.K. and Europe as they were here in the U.S.  And children weren’t the only ones fascinated by these TV series, their parents were too.  Growing up, boys wanted a six-shooter cap pistol, cowboy hat and chaps.  Young girls wanted to be Annie Oakley or Dale Evans, wearing fringe and riding Buttercup.  Didn’t you want a blood brother?  I did.

My English hubby, who had never been on a horse in his life until he met me (and now I can’t keep him off one), has seen far more Western films and TV programs than I ever have. Starting with The Great Train Robbery, made in 1903, through the 1970s, Western films boomed!!  Spaghetti Westerns, the low-budget films made in Italy, of which over 100 were made, were hugely popular throughout Europe, and propelled Clint Eastwood into stardom.  Then came a flood of novels, making this genre one of the bestselling ever published.  It was quite common for a Western novel to sell a quarter of a million copies in paperback in England alone.  German author Karl May was well known for his books portraying the American West, although he had never been there.

But the fascination didn’t START with books and movies, it actually began more than 400 years ago.  Records show that five Abnaki Native Americans from Maine were brought to England in 1606.  Although there is very little written about them, or why they were there, it would be hard to believe they went of their own free will.

A 19th-century depiction of Pocahontas.

I’m sure we’re all familiar with the legend of Pocahontas and John Smith (even if only through Disney’s fictionalized storytelling).  In case you may have forgotten, the child Pocahontas is said to have saved the life of John Smith after he was captured by the Pamunkey tribe and sentenced to death.  Ten years later, at the age of 18, Pocahontas moved to England with two of her tribespeople.  She was married to John Rolfe, a tobacco farmer in Jamestown, Virginia, at the time, having already been baptized as a Christian and now fluent in English.  Pocahontas changed her name to Lady Rebecca Rolfe and died just three years later in England of tuberculosis.  The British fascination with what they perceived to be this savage, new world, must have had its start at this time.

And, of course, we can’t forget about Buffalo Bill’s Wild West Shows.  William F. Cody, better known as “Buffalo Bill” took his American West spectacle to England in 1887.  No one in England had ever seen anything like it before.  Cowboys, Indians, sharp-shooters, trick riders, whip-cracking … performed before the Queen of England and all of European royalty.  His shows were so well attended, Cody became an overnight success and a living legend in England.   Buffalo Bill continued touring England and Europe to sell-out crowds for six years.

May 9, 1887, during Queen Victoria’s Jubilee Celebration, William F. “Buffalo Bill” Cody, debuts his Wild West Show in London.

I now have a much better understanding of the complete fascination of the cowboy culture among Europeans and primarily the British.  The idealization of this freedom-loving spirit with its vigilante independence coupled with the lawlessness and romance of that timeless era, which has been portrayed not only in movies, but in books, magazines, tv programs and our imaginations, has captured the hearts of people everywhere.  Of course, Europeans want to experience the cowboy spirit of that era and live it for a few days.  Don’t we all?

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References:  City of Bandera, Spaghetti Westerns, Vintage News, History Today, Wandering Australian, True West,

PARKIN

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I love to watch cooking shows … and, based upon the number of shows available on tv these days, I’m not alone.  The one I’m enjoying at the moment is a celebrity chef from England, James Martin.  His show, HOME COMFORTS (on Amazon Prime), showcases comfort foods that Martin loves to cook at home when he’s ‘not working’.   In this series, James speaks lovingly of being the son of pig farmers from North Yorkshire, and, as a child, cooking alongside his mother.  From the classic “Toad in the Hole” with onion gravy to a variety of ‘jacket potatoes’ to a Swiss roll and prawn cocktail, this show features British comfort food at its best.

In one recent episode, Martin made a cake called PARKIN.  I honestly had never heard of this cake, but hubby said it was a dish he grew up with.  Although served all year round, this very popular regional North Yorkshire dish is traditionally served in November on Bonfire Night.  I’m not really sure if its a cake or a pudding, but I do know I have to give it a try.  Made with oatmeal and molasses, this dark, spicy ‘gingerbread-like cake’ could be rather stodgy.

As always I did a bit of research to find what is, hopefully, the best and most authentic PARKIN recipe.  Apparently, it dates back to the 14th century.  And in 1728, a homemaker by the name of Anne Whittaker was accused of stealing oatmeal to make PARKIN.  Unlike wheat, oats were the staple grain in the north of England, and used in most of their local dishes from breakfast to dessert.

      “When Arthur, to make their hearts merry … Brought ales and parkin and perry.”

Because it is a British recipe, I’ve converted the grams and milliliters to cups and ounces, but it wasn’t too difficult.  I’m ready now.  So, let’s give it a go!

PARKIN
Bake 325° – 40 to 50 minutes – One 9 x 9 baking pan – Serves 6 to 8 

Ingredients
1-1/2 cups self-raising flour
1-1/2 cups oatmeal* (uncooked)
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon baking soda
3 teaspoons ground ginger
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1 teaspoon ground nutmeg
2 eggs
1 stick butter, cubed
2/3 cup dark molasses
1/2 cup cane sugar syrup (Lyle’s Golden Syrup)
1/2 cup light brown sugar
1/2 cup whole milk

* I used Old Fashioned oatmeal, which is very coarse.  To break the oats down a bit, I pulsed the oatmeal for a few seconds in a food processor.  If you use ‘fast cooking’ oatmeal, you don’t need to do this.

Preheat the oven to 325°.  And grease a 9″ x 9″ square pan (or round pan, or loaf pan … whatever pan you’d like to use).  In a large bowl mix together the flour, salt, spices and baking soda.  Stir together until well blended and then stir in the oatmeal.

Put the molasses, golden syrup, brown sugar, butter and milk in a saucepan and heat until the butter is melted.  Then take it off the heat and cool until lukewarm.  Beat in the eggs.

Add the liquid ingredients from the saucepan to the dry ingredients.  Stir in quickly and beat until the batter is smooth.

Pour the batter into a greased 9″ x 9″ pan.  Bake for 40 to 50 minutes or til it pulls back from the sides and is cooked through.  A tester should come out clean from the middle.  Cool in the pan for a few minutes and then turn it out onto a wire rack to continue cooling.

PARKIN, a strange name for this very homey, old-fashioned, gingerbread-like cake, and I’m still not sure where the name came from.  But this traditional cake was very easy to make.  It is fairly dense, much like a brownie, with the heat from the ginger and cinnamon very prevalent.  I served it warm with a scoop of vanilla ice cream.  Hubby loved it and it sent him right back to his school days.  What’s better than that!

(Note:  On quite a few other sites, I’ve read where Parkin gets even better after three days.  As always the skeptic, I left one, wrapped tightly in the cupboard, for three days.  And, yes, they are correct.  The flavors developed.  It did not dry out and it was much better.)

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CHEESE ROLLING?

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It’s the end of January and, although it hasn’t been a bad winter, I’m feeling a bit like a caged animal  … ready to pounce on anything that looks the least bit exciting.  Snow is in the forecast … again.  Covid restrictions are still in place for many activities.  Family and friends are still hunkering down.  What to do?

I’ve read more books in the past month than I’ve read in the past year.  I’ve mastered the art of making “macarons”.  Every closet and drawer has been cleaned, organized and decluttered.  My spices are now in alphabetical order.  Pitiful.  I know.  But, again, what to do?

I wonder if this is how the organizers of the Cooper’s Hill Cheese Rolling Contest felt when they came up with this bizarre idea for a contest.  I’m imagining a few very bored dairy farmers having a pint or two at the local pub one dreary January, when one of them said “Let’s roll an 8 pound wheel of cheese down a very steep hill and see how many people we can convince to chase it”.   Brilliant!  Cheese rolling?  Down a hill?  Why not!

Apparently, this ‘cheese rolling event‘ has been held in the little parish village of Brockworth, England for the past 600 years.  Each year, on the last Sunday of May, on Cooper’s Hill, you’ll find hundreds of spectators, young and old, lining both sides of this incredibly steep hill.  And it’s not just local villagers who participate.  Over the years, this ‘cheese rolling event’ has caught the attention of people from countries all over the world, like Nepal, New Zealand, Australia, and Canada.

Some have called this the most dangerous footrace in history.  Others have called it ‘the stupidest footrace in history‘ as “twenty young men and women chase a cheese off a cliff and tumble 200 yards to the bottom, where they are scraped up by paramedics and packed off to hospital.”  This event is not sanctioned by any agency or political organization, and has been banned on occasion because of the number of injuries.  Participants can expect to get scrapes and bruises, but broken bones and concussions are not unusual occurrences.  Yes, a first aid station and ambulance service is provided by the local hospital.

What are the rules?  They are very simple … the 8 pound wheel of cheese is allowed to roll down the hill from the very top.  At 12 noon, the Master of Ceremony kicks off the event by shouting: ‘One to be ready, two to be steady, three to prepare (at which point the cheese is released), and four to be off.’  The competitors then launch themselves down the hill after the cheese.  The winner is the first one who reaches the bottom after the cheese.  Originally, the winner had to catch it, but that was next to impossible, with the cheese reaching speeds of up to 80 miles per hour.  The winner must then take the cheese and hold it up over his or her head for the official photograph.

Completely out of control, crashing into one another, gaining speed as they roll.  Head over heels, tumbling, faster and faster, its a wonder they make it at all.  And, after this punishing race, you win THE CHEESE!

Have I interested you yet in participating?  Well, if you’re crazy enough to do it, you do not need to meet any criteria … or fill out any paperwork … or submit a video to the organizers. All you need to do is show up on time and make yourself known to whoever seems to be in charge.  There doesn’t seem to be a maximum number of participants.  As many as 40 have tumbled down this incline at one time.  And anything you might like to wear to attract attention is allowed … and there have been some risk takers for sure.  I’d suggest something protective rather than risqué.

This race is not restricted to just crazy young men … crazy young women also participate … and win. In fact, 28-year-old Flo Early won for the fourth time.  Her first race at the age of 17 whetted her appetite for more.  Now, however, after a broken collar bone three years ago and now an ankle injury, this brave woman has decided to give up the cheese chase.

Well, all things considered, I guess I’ll just wait out the rest of the winter.  I don’t think I’m ready (just yet) to consider throwing myself down a steep embankment for the thrill of chasing anything, never mind a bit of Wensleydale!  Wallace, I’m not.

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References:  History of Yesterday, CarniFest, VisitBritain, AtlasObscura, Wikipedia, CultureTrip,

The Queen’s Grocer, Fortnum & Mason

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Would you believe the Queen of England and I have something in common?  Yes, we do.  And it is that FORTNUM & MASON  is our favorite grocery store.  Yes, this extraordinary store selling some of the most exclusive and expensive items in the world, is a grocery store.  And my favorite!   If you’ve ever visited London, hopefully, don’t just visit Harrod’s, put a trip to Fortnum & Mason on your ‘must’ list too.  You will not be disappointed.

It all began with the Great Fire of 1666, which set all of London ablaze.  As established builders, the Fortnum family moved to London to help with its rebuilding.  A young cousin, William, arrived with the family, renting a room from Hugh Mason, a livery stables keeper, while he took a job as footman in the palace of Queen Anne.   Queen Anne insisted on fresh, new candles each day, so when the royal courtiers retired at the end of the day, William had to replace the candlesticks of the half-used candles with fresh ones.  Rather than throw them away, he took the candle stumps back to his room where he melted them down, replaced the wicks and created new candles.  He would then sell the ‘new’ candles to the chambermaids and household staff, making a tidy profit.

With his entrepreneurial spirit, William approached his landlord, Mr. Mason, with a business proposition to jointly open a store selling the candles and groceries.  They chose the then less affluent Mayfair section of London, a section still undergoing rebuilding and it was there in 1707  that they opened their small store.   Fortnum used his palace connections to drum up business and working closely with the East India Company, began to sell imported teas.  A short two years later, this little grocer had outgrown their original location, moving to where they still are today.

The entrepreneurial spirit continued with William Fortnum’s grandson and namesake, also William Fortnum, who took over the business fifty years later.  The relationship with the palace also continued and they soon became the premiere supplier of teas to the Royals.

Fortnum & Mason had established a very successful business selling ready-made, take-away dishes like pork pies, poultry in aspic, dried fruits, marmalades and jams, to their affluent customers.  One item, which the newest Fortnum created, became immediately popular, the “Scotched Egg“.   A boiled egg, wrapped in sausage and deep fried, the ‘Scotched Egg’ did not need refrigeration, was a lot less smelly than just a boiled egg … and, it was delicious!

Fortnum then created their iconic baskets or “hampers” for hungry travelers, complete with disposable bamboo cutlery.  Whether it was across country or out for an afternoon, travel during that time was long and arduous.  Refrigeration didn’t exist.  There were no fast-food restaurants.  These ‘hampers’ were not only perfect for the road-weary, hungry traveler, but became in demand for an afternoon picnic, which after Jane Austen wrote about the Box Hill picnic in her novel, EMMA, were taking place everywhere.  Not only the aristocracy, but the middle classes quickly  adopted this favorite summertime activity and Fortnum & Mason’s picnic hampers were everywhere.
Since that time, Fortnum & Mason have sent hampers to every part of the world … from base camps on Mount Everest to the battlefields of Iraq.  When Napoleon said “an army marches on his stomach”, I wonder if he knew that Fortnum & Mason was supplying the British officers with food and supplies.  The Napoleonic War lasted from 1799 to 1815 and during that time officers in the British army would order specialty food items, dried fruits, preserves, pates, so that they wouldn’t have to suffer the hardship of war.

Those were the days when clothing mattered and a gentlemen carried an umbrella and wore gloves.  Committed to providing excellence in service while catering to the posh upper-classes, Fortnum’s elevated the uniform of its clerks and doormen from the simple uniform of other stores to waist coat, tails and striped pants.  Doormen wore top hats, opened doors and carried your purchases to your carriage.  Clerks knew you by name and knew your preferences.

Of course, they wouldn’t be the iconic store they are without serving Afternoon Tea, which they have been serving for centuries.  The original St. James room was completely refurbished in 2012 in honor of the Queen’s  Diamond Jubilee.

The magic begins when you enter the building . . . below the ornate clock, built in 1964, where four foot high replicas of Mr. Fortnum and Mr. Mason emerge and bow to each other every hour to the sound of 18th century music . . . and take the red-carpeted stairs to the Fourth floor.  Decorated in their elegant signature blue, you’ll notice the grand piano where the resident pianist plays daily, and then the rows of tea urns lining the walls.  Each table is set exquisitely.  An ever-changing array of offerings from classic scones, finger sandwiches and desserts are impeccably presented and served on a classic three-tiered silver tray.  And, yes, you can ask for ‘seconds’ with no additional charge.  With over 100 specialty teas, you’re bound to find one or more that you like.  It’s expensive … but so worth it.

Afternoon Tea at Fortnum & Mason

From their humble beginnings in the early 1700s until now, Fortnum & Mason has not changed their focus.  They may not be just a grocery store any longer, and many of the great food halls have changed, but there is something that remains unchanged about Fortnum & Mason and that is the commitment to quality products and superior service.

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References:  Williams Sonoma, Wikipedia, Fortnum and Mason, Britain Express, Hazle Ceramics, Afternoon Tea.UK,
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O Christmas Tree … O Christmas Tree

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The Christmas season is here and we’re all beginning the much-anticipated, sometimes stressful and often-times expensive process of ‘decorating’ for the holiday.  From the balsam wreath on the front door to the strings of garlands, lights and, of course, the TREE, it can be an exhausting and exasperating project.

Today, however, we seem to have grown away from the traditional freshly-cut fir tree decorated with ornaments that have been collected over the years, or handed down from generation to generation.  Instead, we seem to have gravitated toward artificial trees, with trendy decorating themes, that change each year … which is fine, I guess.  But I’m a traditionalist.  For me, every tree is unique in its imperfection, and every ornament should have a story to tell.  Of course, I’ve been guilty of that last minute box-of- a-dozen-red-balls purchase, but be assured those are the last ornaments to go on the tree, if they make it there at all.

But, why a tree?  When did we decide to bring this outdoor living plant indoors and decorate it?  And why December … not January or February?  There are so many traditions that we keep alive today, but why?

Let’s start with Adam and Eve.  This parable, with which we are all familiar, signifies life and family, and takes place in the “Garden of Eden” where we find the symbolic “Tree of Life”.  Whether you follow this doctrine or not, in Medieval times, European Christians did, to the point of bestowing sainthood on Adam and Eve.  During that period, every saint was honored with their special communicant service or Mass … St. Thomas had Thomasmass, St. Michael had Michaelmass, Christ had Christmass, etc.  The commemorative Mass of St. Adam and St. Eve was on December 24th, the day before the celebration of the birth of Christ (Christmass).

In other parts of the world, pagan groups believed that evergreens symbolized eternal life.  While other plants and trees died, the evergreen tree remained continually alive.  Because of this phenomena, evergreens were revered.  These Pagan civilizations also considered the sun a living god and were fearful of the darker winter months when the days were their shortest.  Many pagan groups would, beginning on the shortest day of the year, December 21st, hang evergreens over their doors and windows to keep away evil spirits, and celebrate the slow return of the Sun’s strength.

Now let’s combine the Christian tradition with the Pagan belief.  It seems the worshiping of evergreens and, in particular, the fir tree, collided with the conversion of both the Christian and Pagan rituals. There are some who believe that the church tried unsuccessfully to drive the tree cult out of people’s consciousness.  Ultimately, instead of ‘fighting them’, the church decided to ‘join them’ and incorporated the decorated evergreen tree, called a ‘Paradise Tree‘, into the religious celebration of the Christ child.


It was actually the Scandinavians who were the first to bring the evergreen tree inside the home and decorate it.  And it was the Germans who were the first to light the tree with candles.  They decorated their Paradise Tree with apples to represent the Garden of Eden, cookies to represent the Eucharistic host and candles to represent Christ lighting up the world.  There is, however, a legend which says it was Martin Luther, the 16th-century Protestant reformer, who was the first to add lighted candles to a tree.  While walking home one evening, Reverend Luther was amazed by the brilliant stars twinkling in the heavens.  To recapture that scene for his family, he tied lighted candles onto the branches of the tree in his drawing room.

Queen Victoria, Prince Albert and their children decorating a Christmas Tree.

It was well over a hundred years before this tradition of decorating and lighting a “Tree” spread to other parts of Europe and became widely accepted.  Contrary to popular believe, it was not Prince Albert, but Queen Victoria’s grandmother, German-born Charlotte, who brought this German custom with her to England when she married King George III.  Reports were that Queen Charlotte had an evergreen tree at Windsor Castle, which stood in a large tub in the middle of her drawing room.  It was decorated with fruit and lit by candles, with plenty of toys for the children, who were completely enchanted by the spectacle.  This decorated TREE became an annual tradition for the Royal family.

It wasn’t, however, until Queen Victoria and Prince Albert began celebrating Christmas with a decorated tree that the rest of Britain adopted this concept of celebrating Christmas.  Wanting to emulate everything this Royal couple did, by the end of the 1850s it was a well established Christmas custom to have a decorated evergreen tree in the home of all Brits.  It is also believed that Victoria and Albert were the first to have manufactured decorations for their Christmas tree, imported from Germany.  Each year, Albert continued to spread the tradition by donating trees to schools, army barracks and royal estates. A tradition which continues to this very day.

German settlers to the new World took the custom of decorated Christmas trees with them as early as the 17th century.  By the 19th century, Christmas trees were popular not only in the new World, but in the rest of Europe.  Missionaries took the custom of Christmas and decorated trees with them to China and Japan.  So by the 20th century, the tradition of a decorated evergreen tree in your home to celebrate Christmas had become a socially accepted custom.

Whether you’re a traditionalist like me, or someone who follows the annual decorating trend, did you ever think that by putting up and decorating your Christmas tree, you would effectively be transforming your living room into a place of pagan ritual?

                                                                         Merry Christmas!

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References:  Prevail Magazine, Time Magazine, Royal Central,

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Did You Know . . . .

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Did you know that …

… all “tea” comes from one plant, of which there are over 3,000 varieties.
… except for water, tea is the most popular beverage in the world.
… China grows more tea than any other country, but they are not the largest exporter.
… tea improves concentration, mood, and energy, as well as relaxation.
… there is no ‘orange‘ in orange pekoe tea.

… if the tea leaf shipped out of China from the northern ports, it was called ‘cha’
… if the tea leaf shipped out of China from the southern ports, it was called ‘te’.
… white tea actually has more caffeine than black tea.
… a pound of tea has more caffeine than a pound of coffee – but a cup of tea has less caffeine than a cup of coffee.
… the average tea drinker in the U.K. drinks 4.5 lbs of tea each year, while the average tea drinker in Turkey drinks 6.8 lbs.

… tea was first touted for its medicinal benefits – good for colds, dropsies and scurvies.
… in Victorian England, tea sold on average for £26/pound – while the average wage was £10/year.
… in Victorian England, some servants would take the used tea leaves and sell it to unscrupulous dealers, who would add fillers and resell the leaves.
… although we think of teapots as British, they actually originated in China in the 1500s.
… in the Middle East, haggling over prices doesn’t even begin until after tea is served.

… tearooms where the first ‘women-owned’ businesses in the U.S.
… the most famous tearoom in the world is the Willow Tea Room in Glasgow, Scotland.
… in the 19th century, the term for accepting a bribe was called “tea money“.
… in Victorian England, tea was kept locked away in ornate tea chests, with the key being held by the lady of the house.
… in Victorian England, children in orphanages were given tea with milk and sugar daily.

 

… the first tea to be exported from China and enjoyed by Europeans was ‘green’ tea, called “gunpowder“.
… the Portuguese were the first to enjoy drinking tea in Europe, after merchants brought it back from Asia.
… crates of Chinese porcelain was first used as ballast in the bottom of ships transporting tea.
… a China closet was where the lady of the house would display her fine imported “Chinaware”.
… the Chinese started putting handles on teacups when they realized Europeans drank their tea much hotter than they did and in larger bowls.

Ming Dynasty Yixing Teapot

… “pot holes” is the term given to the holes in the road left by English potters who would dig up the fine clay to craft their teapots.
… in the late 1800s until WWI, from London to Glasgow, Tango tea dances were all the rage.
… Prime Minister Earl Grey is credited with ending slavery in Great Britain.
… Earl Grey tea is one of the most popular ‘flavored’ teas in the world.
… Both Twinings and Jacksons of Piccadilly take credit for inventing “Earl Grey” flavored tea.

The Cup of Tea, Mary Cassatt 1881

… Afternoon Tea is credited to the 7th Duchess of Bedford, Anna Russell, in the 1840s.
… Ceylon (Sri Lanka) was a world-class coffee producer until the coffee blight of 1870.
… the tea bag was invented accidentally by Thomas Sullivan as a sample bag for his customers.
… iced tea was accidentally invented by Richard Blechynde on a very hot day at the St. Louis World’s Fair in 1904 when he gave out ‘cold’ samples of his tea.

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Cover Photo:  “Church Lady High Tea” by Janie McGee

STICKY TOFFEE APPLE PUDDING

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It’s Fall and what do you do on a gorgeous Fall day in New England?  Go apple picking, of course!  We were in New Hampshire and stumbled onto this remote, little apple orchard located down a very long, dirt road, nestled  among tall, lumbering pine trees.  No fancy signs with balloons announcing their location.  No giant painted pumpkins, mind-numbing corn mazes or antique tractor displays … just apple trees.  Apprehensively, we approached the little shed with the owner standing outside.  “C’mon in”, he said “wanna pick some apples?”  How could we not.

He explained the different varieties of apple trees and their location in the orchard, handed us a couple of paper bags and off we went.  Picking didn’t take long, as the trees were heavy with fruit … Empire, Macouns, Macintosh, Golden Delicious and Cortland … all red, ripe and ready.  After picking … and eating as many as we could … we managed to find our way back to the shed, where the owner weighed our bounty and offered us a slice of pie.  Pie?  Yes, every day his wife bakes an apple pie for anyone who, after a day of picking, would like to sit, relax and enjoy a slice of homemade apple pie.  Needless to say, it was one of the best apple pies we’ve ever had.

Now, with more apples than we could possibly eat, it was time to get baking!  So what to  make?  I certainly couldn’t compete with the apple pie we had at the orchard.  I’ve made many strudels, cobblers and apple cakes.  I wanted to make something different.  How about an old fashioned steamed pudding?

My inspiration was the classic British dessert, Sticky Toffee Pudding.  Putting on my creative baker hat once again, I came up with this Apple version.  If you are a lover of classic steamed puddings, which, unlike cakes, are dense, moist and homey, then you must give this a try.  Yes, it is a bit time consuming, but its the perfect thing to make on a chilly, Autumn afternoon.

This will feed anywhere from 6 hungry people to 12 easily.  Serve it warm with a generous slug of the thick, sweet toffee topping.  To heck with the calories … you burned them all off apple picking anyway!

STICKY TOFFEE APPLE PUDDING
Bake 350° for 60 to 70 minutes.  Serves 6 to 10, depending upon portion size.

Toffee Sauce
1 15 oz. can sweetened condensed milk

Pudding/Cake/Batter
1/2 stick (4 tablespoons) butter
4-5 large apples, peeled, cored and cubed (approximately 6 cups)
1/2 cup dark brown sugar
1 teaspoon cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon nutmeg
2 tablespoons cornstarch
1 cup chopped toasted walnuts or pecans (optional)

1 stick butter, melted
4 eggs, room temperature
1-1/2 cups brown sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla
2-1/2 cups all purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon baking powder

Into a high-sided saucepan, place the entire can of sweetened condensed milk.  Completely cover the can with water and bring to a boil.  Then cover the saucepan and reduce the heat to a simmer.  Let this simmer, covered, for at least two hours, while you make and bake the pudding.  Check it every now and then to ensure the can is completely covered with simmering water.  Refill water as needed.

Preheat the oven to 350° and butter six to eight ramekins.  In a large baking or roasting pan, lay a kitchen towel.  The ramekins are going to bake in a water bath and the towel keeps the dishes from bumping into each other.

In a large frypan, over medium heat, melt the butter and add the cubed apples.  Sprinkle on the dark brown sugar, the cinnamon, nutmeg and the cornstarch.  Mix gently.  Cover and let it cook down for about 15 minutes or until the apples are softened and a sauce forms.  If needed, add a bit of water.  Stir gently.

While the apples are gently cooking, in a mixing bowl, beat the eggs and brown sugar.  Add the melted butter and vanilla.  Beat in the flour, cinnamon, salt and baking powder.  Mix well, but don’t overbeat.

Spoon the apple filling into the pudding batter.  With a wooden spoon, gently mix all together.  Then spoon the batter into the buttered ramekins.  Not too high.  They will rise a bit.  Sprinkle with toasted nuts, if you’d like.

Place the ramekins on the towel-lined baking pan.  Then fill the baking pan with hot water until the water comes halfway up the sides of the dishes.

Cover the entire baking pan tightly with foil and bake at 350°.  Bake for 60 to 70 minutes (depending upon the size of the ramekins).  No peeking.  Puddings take a bit longer to bake than cakes.

When done, remove the baking pan from the oven and let the puddings rest for 10 minutes.  Meanwhile, take the can which has been bubbling away on the stove top, and holding it with a towel, carefully open it.  It will be very hot.  With a spoon, mix the thick, sweet sauce to smooth it out.  Then spoon the toffee sauce into a serving bowl or pitcher.

To serve, either pop the pudding out of the ramekin and plate it or serve it right in the ramekin … and spoon a generous dollop of toffee sauce on top.  For a little extra treat, you might want to have ice cream or whipped cream on hand.  This is an absolutely rib-sticking, old fashioned dessert, hearty, sweet and full of chunky apples with a creamy toffee sauce … perfect for a cool Fall evening.  i hope you and your family enjoy it as much as we did!!

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