Christmas Pudding

December 4, 2016December 4, 2016Leave a comment

Christmas Pudding is deep, dark and dense. This moist, sweet dessert is stuffed with dried fruits and nuts, and served with a rich, creamy sauce. Much like a fruitcake, Christmas Pudding is one of those ‘love or hate’ desserts. In our home, we love it! And it’s the season, or at least it will be in a very short time, and my hubby couldn’t enjoy Christmas without it. To be clear “pudding” in England is not defined as the sweet, dairy dessert we have here in the States. Although “puddings” in the U.K. are usually served at the end of the meal, they can be sweet or savory, and can also be encrusted in a pastry shell … or not.

Originating in medieval times, Christmas Pudding known then as Plum Pudding or Figgy Pudding (for some reason all dried fruits were either called “plums” or “figs”), still holds true to those medieval roots. To preserve fruits, they were dried … animal fats were also used as a means of preserving foods … and spices were used to cover up the taste of rancid foods. Yummy! Cooking appliances, of course, were very limited. An open hearth was about all you had where you could set a boiling pot or skillet.

The beloved Queen Victoria and Prince Albert adored Christmas and all things traditional. A grand, flaming “Plum Pudding” always took center stage on their table. Perhaps that is one of the reasons why this sweet, dense dessert is still seen on tables all around the U.K.

Christmas Puddings or Plum Puddings are certainly available to purchase. You can find them in the international aisles in most grocery stores and you can certainly find them in British import stores. They can be a bit pricey, but if cooking is not your ‘thing’ or you don’t have time, be sure to pick one up. They are delicious!

Now it’s time to make my Christmas Pudding. As with every traditional recipe, each family or region has their own version. To write down exactly how much of what ingredient is almost impossible. Both my grandmothers, who were very good cooks, could never tell you “exactly” how much to use of any recipe. It was always a pinch of that, or a handful of this. That’s pretty much what this old-fashioned pudding recipe consists of … a pinch of this and a handful of that.

Although this pudding can be made and served the same day, it does much better when made two to three weeks in advance to allow the flavors to deepen. When you are ready to make the pudding, you do need to plan your day. This will require 5 to 7 hours of steaming on top of the stove. The larger the pudding, the longer the steaming time. It was the style during Victorian times to use grand, ornate molds to steam the puddings. Not having one, I used a bundt pan, making one large pudding, which required 7 hours of steaming.

Adding a gold coin for good luck in the coming year has become a tradition in some homes. If you are going to add a coin or a charm, be sure it has been thoroughly cleaned. Lastly, the pound of dried fruits can consist of any combination of fruits you like. I used 1/4 lb. each of sultanas, pineapple, mango and prunes. Mix it up and use whatever you like.

Now have a go!

CHRISTMAS PUDDING
You will need to know how many you’re going to make … one large, two or more? Be sure the bowls or molds are heatproof and can fit into your covered pot. You will also need parchment paper and aluminum foil.

¾ cup rum or brandy or vodka or sherry
1 pound of mixed dried fruits – currants, golden raisins, sultanas, pitted prunes, dates, apricots, pineapple, mango, candied peel, glace cherries, etc. Any assortment will do.
8 oz. melted butter
¾ cup dark brown sugar
3 large eggs
2 tablespoons honey
zest and juice from one orange
1 cup all-purpose flour (more or less)
2 ½ cups fresh breadcrumbs
½ teaspoon ground cinnamon
¼ teaspoon ground nutmeg
¼ teaspoon ground cloves
½ teaspoon ground ginger
1 teaspoon baking powder
1 cup chopped nuts, walnuts/almonds/pecans (optional)
Grated rind and juice of one orange
½ cup vodka (to flame the pudding)

Cut the pound of dried fruits up into even-sized pieces. Kitchen shears or scissors is the easiest way to do this. Make sure all the pieces are about the same size.

Put the mixed fruits into a bowl and pour the liquor over. Mix well, cover and let steep overnight or up to a week. I used a sweet liquor made from the tamarind fruit. Soooo good!

The next day, or later that same day, combine the dry ingredients and spices in a small bowl. In another bowl, mix together the brown sugar, orange peel, orange juice, honey and melted butter.

Beat in the eggs one at a time. The batter will appear to have curdled. Not to worry. Add the dry ingredients and mix well.

When combined, add the steeped fruits and nuts and mix to combine thoroughly. If the batter is too wet, add more flour. Now you can add the “lucky charm”. Put a large pan of water or steamer on to boil. Place a saucer in the bottom to keep the pudding mold from touching the bottom of the pan. Generously grease the pudding mold(s).

Pour the batter in the prepared mold or bowl, pressing the mixture down and tapping it to get rid of any air bubbles. Then wrap it with a layer of parchment paper and foil so that it is completely watertight. It will rise a bit and needs room at the top.

It’s also important to trim away any excess parchment paper and foil. You don’t want any steam traveling into the mold and making your pudding soggy.

Put a small plate upside down inside the pan to keep the mold/bowl from touching the bottom of the pam. Then place the mold into the pan of water. The water should come at least halfway or more up the side of the bowl or mold.

Bring the water to a boil, cover tightly and steam for 5 to 7 hours, checking every now and again to make sure the water hasn’t bubbled away. The longer you let it steam, the darker it will get. After 5 to 7 hours, remove the mold carefully and let it cool completely. Discard the paper and foil and rewrap with fresh. Store in a cool, dry place or the refrigerator for up to four weeks.

I can’t show you a photo of the finished product because this pudding is getting wrapped up and going into the frig for a couple of weeks. It’s not Christmas yet!! But when you are ready to serve, put the pudding (still in its mold) and still wrapped tightly into the pot to steam again, for about an hour just to reheat.

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This isn’t my pudding, but I’ll replace this photo at Christmas with my own! Thank you “living the pie life”.

To serve it, remove the mold from the pan, remove the lid, put a large plate on top and turn it upside down. Give the mold a little tap to help it out. Decorate the top with a sprig of holly. Then bring the pudding to the table while you heat the brandy, rum or vodka in a small pan until its very hot, but not boiling. Pour the liquor over the pudding at the table and light it. So impressive! Be sure to serve it with an Eggnog Cream, Brandy Cream or sweetened whipped cream.

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References: History of Christmas Pudding, Livin the Pie Life, English Christmas Cakes
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Raisins, Sultanas or Currants?

June 28, 2016June 28, 20161 Comment

Have you ever read a British recipe only to see “sultanas” or “currants” as an ingredient? And have you ever then put that recipe down because who has “sultanas” or “currants” in the cupboard? Probably no one in the states. But do you know what they are and what you can use?

I’m pretty sure we all know what raisins are? Dried seedless grapes. The majority of our grapes are grown in California, originally from the ‘Sultanina’ grape (possibly named because of its origination in the town Soultanieh in the middle East).

In 1870 William Thompson imported this variety of grape to California for his vineyards. But from the devastating drought of 1873 William was left with nothing but shriveled up grapes on his vines. Making ‘lemonade out of lemons’ Thompson sold the dried up grapes as a “Peruvian Delicacy” and low and behold the California raisin industry was born! The Sultanina grape is now known as the Thompson grape and is the most widely planted grape in the industry.

Dried grapes (or raisins) have been around for thousands of years though. Whether it’s grapes, or plums, figs or apricots, leaving vegetables and fruits out to dry in the sun is one of the oldest methods of preserving food. More than 2,000 years B.C. wall paintings found throughout the Mediterranean showed us that dried fruits were a major part of the diet. In medieval times, dried fruits were the most common form of sweetener, far more popular (and more expensive) than honey. In Roman times, two bags of dried fruits could buy a slave.

So now that we’ve established what a raisin is, what is a sultana? Sultanas are actually nothing more than ‘raisins’, but made from the lighter green Thompson grapes. When dried, they are golden in color and tend to be a bit bigger and sweeter than our ordinary raisins. Sultanas are easy to find in the supermarket under the name “golden raisins”. In baking you can use golden raisins anytime sultanas are called for in a recipe.

Currants, on the other hand, are a completely different fruit. Much smaller in size and quite tart, whether red or black, currants are berries grown on shrubs or bushes and not grown on vines. Most often, currants are associated with only being available in Great Britain. Sun Maid sells a product called Zante Currants, which is not a currant at all but a grape, originally from Greece, and should not be confused with the currants of Great Britain.

The currants used in many British recipes are, for the most part, not available in the U.S. Commercial cultivation of these currants was banned from 1911 until 2003 because of concerns the plants could harbor a disease that had the potential to devastate American timber. Disease-resistant varieties were developed and now the ban has been lifted. For this reason, many Americans confuse Zante raisins with currants. Although I’ve never tried growing currants, I’m told they grow easily in your own backyard. So until I do, I’m probably going to use Sun Maid’s Zante Currants (raisins) in place of British currants in my baking.

Whether in baking or in savory foods, be sure to use plenty of raisins, sultanas or currants in your cooking … or just keep them around as a handy snack. A low-fat food, full of antioxidants and polyphenolic phytonutrients, dried fruits act as an anti-inflammatory and can help protect the body against free radicals. Dried fruits also contain iron, B vitamins, potassium and magnesium, which helps build red blood cells and healthy bones. Red and black currants, in particular, have four times more vitamin C than oranges and twice the antioxidants of blueberries. Great for digestion because they contain lots of fiber, these sweet, delicious dried fruits really are nature’s candy.

So the next time you’re about to make Spotted Dick, a Christmas Pudding or Bara Brith, don’t be afraid to reach for the ‘raisins’.

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References: Raisin Grape Varieties, Isons Nurseries, Sun Maid, Cornell University, Wise Geek

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Bara Brith

June 6, 2016June 6, 2016Leave a comment

In Wales, as in so many countries, it was customary for the women of the household to designate one day as “baking day”. The entire day would be spent making all the breads, rolls, cakes and biscuits that would be needed for the week. Using any bread dough that was leftover from making the yeast breads would then become the base for this bread. Adding leftover tea, spices, dried fruits, sugar would then become that family’s Bara Brith.

Bara Brith or in Welsh “Speckled Bread” is exactly what it is … a bread speckled with dried fruits. Traditionally this is a yeast bread, but it is quite often made as a quick bread. As with any regional recipe, each family has their own version. This one might be a bit different from some that you’ve had in the past, why? because it’s MY version …. and it is delicious!!

If you are a fan of “the Great British Bake Off“, as I am, you might remember that one of the contestants actually baked her version of a yeasted Bara Brith as her entry on Season 4. Click on the link below and you’ll find her recipe. My version is a quick bread … but keep in mind you do have to let the dried fruits soak in the hot tea for a couple of hours in advance.

BARA BRITH
Bake 350°F for approximately one hour. Makes one large loaf.

1-1/2 cups all purpose flour
1/2 cup ground almonds (optional)
(if not using ground almonds, increase flour to 2 cups)
2 teaspoons baking powder
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 cup hot black tea
1/2 cup dried raisins (or any dried mixed fruits, diced)
1/2 cup dried dates, diced (or prunes, apricots, etc.)
1 apple, peeled and grated
1/2 cup dark brown sugar
1 egg, beaten
2 tablespoons melted butter

In a bowl, mix together the dried dates and dried raisins (or any combination of diced, dried fruits). Pour one cup of hot, strong black tea over the fruits. Cover and then let them plump up for at least three to four hours (or overnight, if you’d like).

Grease a one pound loaf pan. Sift together the dry ingredients. I love the flavor of almonds, and the texture that it gives this bread. Use ground almond meal if you have it, or omit it and increase the flour to 2 cups. This is all up to YOU.

Peel and grate one cooking apple (not a Mac or Macoun – too juicy).

In a large mixing bowl add all the dry ingredients, the brown sugar, the egg, the melted butter, and the dried fruit/tea mixture (with all the tea liquid).

Beat together until well blended.

Pour the batter into the prepared pan and bake for one hour. Test after about 50 minutes for doneness.

When done, turn out onto a cooling rack and then put the kettle on.

This bread is so-o-o-o moist and delicious, you’ll have a hard time not eating the entire loaf yourself!

If you have the opportunity to visit Wales, be sure to make time one afternoon to stop for a spot of tea and enjoy a slice of this moist, sweet bread with it. Slather it with butter if you like, but it’s not really necessary. It stands up very well on its own. If you don’t have the opportunity to visit Wales, do yourself a favor and make this bread!! (The photos don’t do it credit.)

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References: Great British Bake Off, Paul Hollywood’s British Baking, Traditional Welsh Recipes
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Barm Brack

November 14, 2015October 24, 2019Leave a comment

The first time I had Barm Brack was in Ireland about 35 years ago when it was served to me with breakfast … warm from the oven, rich and dark, speckled with dried fruits and slathered in sweet, creamy butter. Barm Brack is not a bread you see for sale here in the U.S. unless you go to a bakery which specializes in Irish foods. Determined to make my own, I started the search for the definitive recipe. The problem is, there appears to be as many different recipes for this classic Irish loaf as their are dried fruits in the mix. As with every country, many ‘homey’ recipes are passed down from generation to generation, most often never having been written down. As a result, they vary significantly.

Many websites (including Wikipedia) refer to Barm Brack as a ‘quick bread’ (requiring no yeast at all). The name Barm Brack actually comes from the English word, “beorma,” which means yeasty. As a result, this is a “yeast” bread, not to be confused with the quick bread version, Tea Brack, which uses baking powder as its leavening agent. The Gaelic word for speckled is “brac” so whether you use yeast or baking powder, what we have is a delicious bread with dried fruits.

Although Barm Brack is enjoyed all year round, it is traditionally served at Halloween. Small trinkets are concealed in the bread … much like the baby in the King Cake at Mardi Gras. On Etsy you can actually buy Barm Brack kits to add the charms to your dough – a coin (for riches), a ring (for marriage), a pea (for no marriage – or maybe divorce), and a stick (for an unhappy marriage).

If you, like me, use a stand mixer with a dough hook to make bread, then this is not a difficult bread to make at all. And on a cold, rainy day, what could be more perfect than the smell of bread baking in the oven? Of the many versions of the classic recipe, this one’s my favorite. If you make it, let me know how it comes out. Enjoy!

BARM BRACK
Makes one super large round loaf or two 1 pound loaves. When ready to bake, preheat oven to 375°.

4-1/2 cups unbleached white flour
1 tsp. allspice
1-1/2 tsps. salt
1 pkg. active dry yeast
3 tablespoons brown sugar
1-1/4 milk – warmed
4 tablespoons melted butter
1 beaten egg
1-3/4 cup dried fruits (raisins, cranberries, currants, cherries, candied peel) soaked in …
2/3 cup water
vegetable oil
1 beaten egg white

A couple hours before you begin to make the bread, put the dried fruits into a bowl – bring the water to a boil and pour over the dried fruits. Soak the fruits until softened – anywhere from an hour to overnight.

When softened, drain the fruits and reserve the water – to add to the bread batter.

Into a large mixing bowl add flour, salt, allspice and blend together. In a separate bowl mix together the sugar, yeast and warmed milk (not too hot). Make a well in the center of the large bowl and pour in the yeast mixture. Add the beaten egg, melted butter and most of the water from the fruits.

Using a dough hook (or wooden spoon if you are not using a stand mixer), blend all ingredients together until incorporated. Mix well. Add more water if needed to make a smooth dough. I like to beat the dough briskly so that my kneading time is reduced. Add the dried fruits at the last moment – incorporating thoroughly.

Turn the dough onto a lightly floured board and let it rest for a few minute while you wash out the bowl and oil it. Then knead the dough vigorously for at least 10 minutes to build up the gluten. It should be smooth and not sticky.

Place the dough back into the bowl, oil the top of the dough so it doesn’t dry out and cover with plastic wrap. Put the bowl in a warm spot, free from drafts, to let the dough rise until its about double in size (one to two hours).

When the dough has risen fully, it should retain an indentation when you press into it with your finger. Punch the air out of the dough and turn it out onto a lightly floured board once again.

Grease or oil your pan(s). The classic shape is one large round loaf, but you can create any size or shape you’d like. In the past I’ve chosen to make two one pound loaf pans, today its going to be one super large loaf.

When shaping the dough, making sure there are no air holes in it. Place the dough into the pan(s). Let it rise again until doubled in size (30 minutes or so). Brush the tops with the beaten egg white. You can cut slits into the top of the loaf if you’d like … or not.

Bake at 375° … 1-1/4 hours for one loaf … 60 minutes for two. The loaf should sound hollow when rapped on the bottom with a spoon. Turn the bread out onto a wire rack and let cool.

Look at the size of this thing!! It could be a weapon, it’s so large. But it is beautiful and will be delicious!! So now its time to take the butter out of the frig to soften … put the kettle on and enjoy!

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References: THE COMPLETE IRISH PUB COOKBOOK

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Tea, Toast and Travel

Exploring the World of British Foods and Traditions

Tag: dried fruits

Christmas Pudding

Raisins, Sultanas or Currants?

Bara Brith

Barm Brack