Would you believe the Queen of England and I have something in common? Yes, we do. And it is that FORTNUM & MASON is our favorite grocery store. Yes, this extraordinary store selling some of the most exclusive and expensive items in the world, is a grocery store. And my favorite! If you’ve ever visited London, hopefully, don’t just visit Harrod’s, put a trip to Fortnum & Mason on your ‘must’ list too. You will not be disappointed.
It all began with the Great Fire of 1666, which set all of London ablaze. As established builders, the Fortnum family moved to London to help with its rebuilding. A young cousin, William, arrived with the family, renting a room from Hugh Mason, a livery stables keeper, while he took a job as footman in the palace of Queen Anne. Queen Anne insisted on fresh, new candles each day, so when the royal courtiers retired at the end of the day, William had to replace the candlesticks of the half-used candles with fresh ones. Rather than throw them away, he took the candle stumps back to his room where he melted them down, replaced the wicks and created new candles. He would then sell the ‘new’ candles to the chambermaids and household staff, making a tidy profit.
With his entrepreneurial spirit, William approached his landlord, Mr. Mason, with a business proposition to jointly open a store selling the candles and groceries. They chose the then less affluent Mayfair section of London, a section still undergoing rebuilding and it was there in 1707 that they opened their small store. Fortnum used his palace connections to drum up business and working closely with the East India Company, began to sell imported teas. A short two years later, this little grocer had outgrown their original location, moving to where they still are today.
The entrepreneurial spirit continued with William Fortnum’s grandson and namesake, also William Fortnum, who took over the business fifty years later. The relationship with the palace also continued and they soon became the premiere supplier of teas to the Royals.
Fortnum & Mason had established a very successful business selling ready-made, take-away dishes like
pork pies, poultry in aspic, dried fruits, marmalades and jams, to their affluent customers. One item, which the newest Fortnum created, became immediately popular, the “Scotched Egg“. A boiled egg, wrapped in sausage and deep fried, the ‘Scotched Egg’ did not need refrigeration, was a lot less smelly than just a boiled egg … and, it was delicious!
Fortnum then created their iconic baskets or “hampers” for hungry travelers, complete with disposable bamboo cutlery. Whether it was across country or out for an afternoon, travel during that time was long and arduous. Refrigeration didn’t exist. There were no fast-food restaurants. These ‘hampers’ were not only perfect for the road-weary, hungry traveler, but became in demand for an afternoon picnic, which after Jane Austen wrote about the Box Hill picnic in her novel, EMMA, were taking place everywhere. Not only the aristocracy, but the middle classes quickly adopted this favorite summertime activity and Fortnum & Mason’s picnic hampers were everywhere.
Since that time, Fortnum & Mason have sent hampers to every part of the world … from base camps on Mount Everest to the battlefields of Iraq. When Napoleon said “an army marches on his stomach”, I wonder if he knew that Fortnum & Mason was supplying the British officers with food and supplies. The Napoleonic War lasted from 1799 to 1815 and during that time officers in the British army would order specialty food items, dried fruits, preserves, pates, so that they wouldn’t have to suffer the hardship of war.
Those were the days when clothing mattered and a gentlemen carried an umbrella and wore gloves. Committed to providing excellence in service while catering to the posh upper-classes, Fortnum’s elevated the uniform of its clerks and doormen from the simple uniform of other stores to waist coat, tails and striped pants. Doormen wore top hats, opened doors and carried your purchases to your carriage. Clerks knew you by name and knew your preferences.
Of course, they wouldn’t be the iconic store they are without serving Afternoon Tea, which they have been serving for centuries. The original St. James room was completely refurbished in 2012 in honor of the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee.
The magic begins when you enter the building . . . below the ornate clock, built in 1964, where four foot high replicas of Mr. Fortnum and Mr. Mason emerge and bow to each other every hour to the sound of 18th century music . . . and take the red-carpeted stairs to the Fourth floor. Decorated in their elegant signature blue, you’ll notice the grand piano where the resident pianist plays daily, and then the rows of tea urns lining the walls. Each table is set exquisitely. An ever-changing array of offerings from classic scones, finger sandwiches and desserts are impeccably presented and served on a classic three-tiered silver tray. And, yes, you can ask for ‘seconds’ with no additional charge. With over 100 specialty teas, you’re bound to find one or more that you like. It’s expensive … but so worth it.
Afternoon Tea at Fortnum & Mason
From their humble beginnings in the early 1700s until now, Fortnum & Mason has not changed their focus. They may not be just a grocery store any longer, and many of the great food halls have changed, but there is something that remains unchanged about Fortnum & Mason and that is the commitment to quality products and superior service.
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References: Williams Sonoma, Wikipedia, Fortnum and Mason, Britain Express, Hazle Ceramics, Afternoon Tea.UK,
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In a large bowl or food processor (which I prefer), mix or pulse together all dried ingredients: flour, baking powder, salt, sugar, lemon zest and lavender.
Using your fingers or a fork, work butter into dry ingredients until just crumbly. If using a food processor, pulse 8 or 9 times.
Whisk together egg, lemon juice and heavy cream and add it to the mixture. With a fork, bring together quickly. Do not overmix or scones will be heavy.
Dump the mixture onto a lightly floured board. It will be a bit crumbly. Knead two or three times to bring the dough together. Again, do not overwork the dough.
Shape into a round about 1/2″ thick. Cut the desired number of scones you’d like … in the shapes you’d like. Round. Triangular. Square. It’s up to you. I decided to be creative and cut mine to resemble a flower.
Remove from the oven and cool on a rack. (Unfortunately, the angle of the photo doesn’t show how much they’ve risen.) For confectioners’ glaze, mix together four tablespoons confectioners’ sugar and 1 teaspoon milk. When the scones are cool, drizzle with confectioners’ glaze.
How do you like my scone flower?
Be sure to put the kettle on and have your cuppa ready because you’re going to want to dive right into these … well, at least, I did!


Credit for the “Bourbon” biscuit, the “Custard Creme” and “Nice” biscuits go to Harold Trixie, not an employee of Peek Frean, but housemaster at the King Edward VI Boarding School in Nottinghamshire. Harold’s father was a baker, and created the “two biscuits sandwiched together with a creamy filling”. Boarding schools at that time were notorious for underfeeding their students. Remembering the French-inspired baked goods his father would make, Trixie used the same method, a soft filling between a harder outer shell, to make biscuits for his young male students. Disguised as a demonstration of good etiquette, Trixie began hosting informal ‘afternoon tea’ sessions at the boy’s school, bringing in his own baked goods and biscuits. Because of the extra sugar and fat provided by the biscuits, it was noticed that Harold Trixie’s students had begun to outperform their peers. His chocolate creation was named the ‘Bourbon’ after the French noblemen’s House of Bourbon.







When I go to one of these take-away cafes, I know I’m going to have to compromise on the quality of the tea that I’m about to order. I love green tea, but I know it will be a teabag of questionable quality, steeped with water that is far too hot and, if I don’t tell them to please not put the teabag into the cup, it will definitely be oversteeped and bitter. I will carry the cup, perhaps on a tray, back to a table, which may or may not be clean, slopping most of the tea over the top, only to find that there’s no chair available, and napkins are nowhere in sight. (Sigh)
And the media tells me everyone is so concerned about their calorie and sugar intake, yet many Brits now consume these beverages regularly. Action on Sugar, which is a group of specialists concerned with sugar intake and its effects on health, analyzed 131 hot drinks and found Starbucks, Caffé Nero and Costa to be among the worst offenders.
In a large bowl mix together the flour, salt, sugar and lemon zest. In a small bowl warm the milk slightly (microwave is fine) and add the butter. Stir until melted.
Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured board. Knead in the dried fruits or candied lemon peel.
When the dough has doubled in size and is ready (it will hold a depressed fingerprint) tip it out onto your pastry board.
If not using lemon curd, just roll each ball tightly and then place all the dough balls in a parchment lined baking tray. They should just touch each other.

poon, remove as much of the pith as possible. Slice the peel into long, thin julienne strips. Place the lemon strips into a small saucepan and just cover with water. Bring to a boil.

hrough a strainer to remove the lemon zest, and any coagulated bits. I want to have all the zesty bits right in there, so I prefer not to.




